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Econ. History



             is SOME DIETS OF THE PAST, RECKONED IN CALORIES.
             Sooner or later a more varied diet became common in towns everywhere.
             where assessment is possible, at the very least more varied than in the country-.
             side. In Paris, where as we have seen, per capita consumption in 1780 was about.
             2000 calories, only 58% of the total was accounted for by cereals: about a pound.
             of bread a day.114 And this corresponds to figures (both earlier and later) for.
             average Parisian bread consumption: 540 grams in 1637; 556 in 1728-30; 462. in.
             1770; 587 in 1788; 463 in 1810; 500 in 1820; and 493 in 1854.115 We certainly.
             cannot vouch for these quantities - any more than we can vouch for the figure.
             of 180 kilograms per person, which seems (though the calculation is doubtful).
             to have been the annual consumption in Venice at the beginning of the seven-.
             teenth century.116 However, other indications suggest that the Venetian working.
             class was both well paid and demanding, and that the better-off had the extrava-.
             gant habits of long-standing town-dwellers.
             Europe was on the whole a region of meat-eaters: 'butchers had catered for.
             the belly of Europe for over a thousand years'.6 For centuries during the middle.
             ages, its tables had been loaded with meat and drink worthy of Argentina in the.
             nineteenth century. This was because the European countryside, beyond the.
             Mediterranean shores, had long remained half empty with vast lands for pas-.
             turing animals, and even in later times its agriculture left plenty of room for.
             livestock. But Europe's advantage declined after the seventeenth century. The.
             general rule of vegetable supremacy seemed to be re-asserting itself with the.
             increase in population in Europe up to at least the middle of the nineteenth.
             century.7 Then and only then, scientific stock-raising and massive arrivals of.
             meat from America, salted and then frozen, enabled it to break its fast.
             We can risk the generalization that there was no real luxury or sophistication of.


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