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The Big Wave Surfing Phenomeno

"Surf legend concludes that this place is very mystic with an inner music and culture left by the Constantan Indians who lived and fished in the area hundreds of years prior to the arrival of Portola in 1769. Pillar Point was in fact a whaling center in the 1870's with men risking their lives in six man single massed boats trying to bring in the big catch." Today the point is a popular area gaining more notoriety daily for a wave that still may yet set new standards of big wave surf riding. The handful of locals that put their lives on the line and surf Mavericks are as uncommon as the waves themselves. An early morning arrival for scouting of breaks, water temperature, and wind variations at sunlight are gathered quietly after a short hike up the mountain overlooking surf. Up to an hour may be spent analyzing the swells, which will be discussed in detail later. Sail Rock, located just inside the first reef at Mavericks, is the home to colonies of seals and sea lions. "As magical aspect of the break is the marine spectator's sea lions watching from close range at surfers paddling out to the lineup of destiny." After a wipeout in which a board has broken or a leash has snapped, the sea lions will often dog (lure consciously) surfers into the dangerous tidal flats inside Sail Rock. Even up to and greater than fourteen foot swells and the shape is a direct result from the bottom configuration of the rock. The reef reaches out like sharp knockoffs on old cars during drag races in the Los Angeles River to the depths where the surfer is most likely located. Huge boulders are shifting uncontrollably around the base of the outside and inside of the reefs. The bottom is carpeted with large fragments of fiberglass and remains of boats that were destroyed near the base of Sail Rock. All this can be captured by simply parking the car on the Ocean Highway 1 and walking about fifteen or so yards to the beach front and looking straight out toward the surf.


Essays Related to The Big Wave Surfing Phenomeno

1. Surfing

Surfing was due for a change, and this looked to be it. ... Another early short board big wave design, the pocket rocket was developed by Reno Albelara in Hawaii. The balsa version of the "Pocket Rocket" built by Bruce Gabrielson and LaRoy Dennis was a board which could handle big waves but was built out of balsa for better stability. ... Some surfers are reluctant to give up their longboards because it was and still is well known that paddling and being able to catch more waves in poor quality surf was a lot harder with a shorter board that has less volume. ... Waves vary as much as the boa...

  • Word Count: 2251
  • Approx Pages: 9
  • Grade Level: High School

2. My Love of Surfing

I get worked up when that big set wave rolls through every thirty minutes and I decide to let it pass by because I think there is something better right behind it. ... The smile he had on the paddle back out was bigger than I would have on a big wave. ... I leaned that surfing isn't about how high you can air or how many waves you could catch. ... I might be still lying on my back and looking up to surfing, but that may also make the waves look bigger. ... I always try and give someone my wave when I surf and I find watching surfing just as fun as actually surfing. ...

  • Word Count: 1618
  • Approx Pages: 6
  • Grade Level: High School

3. The Origins of Surfing

Catching waves with theses canoes was the easy way to surpass the dangerous coral reefs, so this is where they first adopted the skill of wave riding. ... The origin of board surfing started as canoe riding in the waves after a day of fishing. After that came body surfing, a practice in which an individual simply glides into the shore with the waves. ... Surfing also got a big start from West Africa and South America. ... After a hundred years of Hawaiian wave riding, their style of surfing emerged. ...

  • Word Count: 1126
  • Approx Pages: 5
  • Grade Level: High School

4. The Origins of Surfing

Catching waves with theses canoes was the easy way to surpass the dangerous coral reefs, so this is where they first adopted the skill of wave riding. ... The origin of board surfing started as canoe riding in the waves after a day of fishing. After that came body surfing, a practice in which an individual simply glides into the shore with the waves. ... Surfing also got a big start from West Africa and South America. ... After a hundred years of Hawaiian wave riding, their style of surfing emerged. ...

  • Word Count: 1122
  • Approx Pages: 4
  • Grade Level: High School

5. Origins of Surfing

Catching waves with theses canoes was the easy way to surpass the dangerous coral reefs, so this is where they first adopted the skill of wave riding. ... The origin of board surfing started as canoe riding in the waves after a day of fishing. After that came body surfing, a practice in which an individual simply glides into the shore with the waves. ... Surfing also got a big start from West Africa and South America. ... After a hundred years of Hawaiian wave riding, their style of surfing emerged. ...

  • Word Count: 1121
  • Approx Pages: 4
  • Grade Level: High School

6. From Surf Racks To Riches

From Surf Racks to Riches "Shoots bro. ... Needless to say she is nervous about surfing Pipe, considering the ten to twenty foot waves that steamroll all in its path and thereafter hurls all who dare to ride it towards shallow, razor sharp coral and deadly underwater caves. After a few failed attempts at catching a wave and watching fellow surfers systematically picked off by injuries, Anne Marie catches one of the nicest waves of the day and executes it perfectly. ... Anne Marie is a typical Hawaiian surfer chick with hopes and dreams as big as her heart. ... In this sense, Anne Marie...

  • Word Count: 1355
  • Approx Pages: 5
  • Grade Level: High School

7. Surfing

During this week hurricane Isabel graced us with her presence I came to realize just how much I enjoy the sport of surfing. One reason that surfing is my favorite sport is because, unlike the other sports I do, such as skateboarding and snowboarding, every time you go surfing it's always different. No two beaches break the same, no two storms send the same waves, no two sets of waves are the same, no two waves in the entire ocean are ever the same, and the sport is always changing. No matter how good you get at surfing, and no matter how much or how long you have done it, there'...

  • Word Count: 449
  • Approx Pages: 2

8. Surfing, The Australian History Of

Great waves and good friends, that is kind of what it is all about when you get older. ... Busting big Ariels is pretty much over with. ... The longest I was held down was at Sunset on a big day, even longer than big Wiamea or big Makaha. ... The worst injury was the wave that did in my back at "middles" on Kauai two years ago. ... That is big enough to give me a thrill and a ton of speed but not big enough to kill me. ...

  • Word Count: 2637
  • Approx Pages: 11
  • Grade Level: High School

9. How To Surf

When one goes surfing there are three basic stages that are repeated in a surf session: getting out to the line up, waiting for the wave, and catching a wave and riding it in. ... Once at the "line up"(or general area that one waits for the incoming waves) its all a matter of patience and proper timing, two very important aspects involved in surfing. ... This is one of the nice things about surfing for many people. ... Once surfing the wave, skill and ability permitting, many tricks and maneuvers can be done. But in many cases just simply "surfing" the wave for what it is, can suffice t...

  • Word Count: 860
  • Approx Pages: 3
  • Grade Level: High School

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