Chanel, Gabrielle Bonheur: (1883-1971), French couturiere who was famous for the simple, elegant "Chanel look" and who, more than any other fashion designer, defined the standards of modern dress for women. Chanel was born on Aug. 19, 1883, in Saumur, Maine-et-Loire, France. In 1914 she went to Paris and, with a sister, opened a small hat shop. In the 1920s "Coco" Chanel became recognized for a black wool jersey dress ("the little black dress"), made of unfashionable material hitherto used for maids' uniforms; unadorned silhouettes, often set off with lavish costume jewelry; and distinctly feminine adaptations of menswear to women's clothing. Chanel believed in and epitomized the modern woman: active, independent, and inclined to sportswear. The couturiere herself was both imperious and informal; her slouchy stance typified her relaxed look and the client who preferred to wear menswear-inspired clothing for mobility, ease, and a sense of power. Chanel No. 5, one of the most popular fragrances of all time, was launched in 1922. The House of Chanel closed in 1939 at the onset of World War II, but in 1954, at the age of 70, Chanel resumed her business, emphasizing the Chanel suit with its boxy jacket, rugged textures (often borrowed from men's tailoring), and color coordination. Though little praised in France, the Chanel suit became a prestige item among American women accustomed to sportswear; indeed, it was a chief symbol of high style in the United States in the 1950s and 1960s and was copied by many American manufacturers. Chanel died in Paris on Jan. 10, 1971, in the midst of preparing her fashion collection. Her business continues in the late 20th century in fragrances and licensed products and in definitive clothing collections designed since 1983 by Karl Lagerfeld. Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel, b. Aug. 19, 1883, d. Jan. 10, 1971, was one of the most celebrated Parisian couturiers of the 20th century.