Surfing has been a sport enjoyed by hundreds of thousands of people around the world. It originated in Polynesian culture as a religious ceremony mainly practiced by the royalty. Having been introduced from the Hawaiian Islands roughly 60 years ago, it has become a common practice in virtually every coastal beach break throughout the USA and numerous places around the globe. When one goes surfing there are three basic stages that are repeated in a surf session: getting out to the line up, waiting for the wave, and catching a wave and riding it in.
First off, one has to get to a beach break where there are rideable waves. Once there, one gets his/her leash and firmly straps it to the ankle. Depending if one's surfing stance on the board is Regular footed (left foot in front) or Goofy footed (right foot in front), the leash is normally strapped on the trailing leg. Taking the board in hand, one jumps into the water resting his/her chest on the center of the board, and begins paddling in a smooth and controlled fashion. As the whitewater from the crashing waves get closer and closer one has to submerse oneself along with the board under the wave, this is called "duck diving." In order to not get caught by the wave's force and washed off the board, this procedure has to be performed with proper timing and technique. In most cases it takes a lot of practice to properly master, even then, one is at the wave's mercy. To make matters even more challenging, other surfers have to be accounted for. Depending on how crowded the surf break is, the possibilities of getting hit or run-over by other surfers is predominant. Meanwhile, several "duck dives" later one has reached the "line-up" and has an opportunity to rest up after the hard paddle.
Once at the "line up"(or general area that one waits for the incoming waves) its all a matter of patience and proper timing, two very important aspects involved in surfing.