1. Surfing, The Australian History Of
The above diversion is only intended as an amusement, not a trial of skill, & in a gentle swell that sets on must I conceive be very pleasant, at least they seem to feel a great pleasure in the motion which this Exercise gives." ... That is big enough to give me a thrill and a ton of speed but not big enough to kill me. ...
- Word Count: 2637
- Approx Pages: 11
- Grade Level: High School